Backstage at Marta Jakubowski SS18 photographed by Lucie Rox for Dazed
text by Kara Kia
In an industry where men have traditionally decided the aesthetic eye, it is refreshing to see female designers taking the helm at heritage houses such as Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior.
What is even more exciting about this fashion season is the plethora of British trained women who are pioneering labels of their own. These four women are some of our favourite designers from #LFW and definitely ones to watch.
Goddard is wholly responsible for the resurgence of princess tulle. An MA Fashion Knitwear graduate from Central Saint Martins in 2014, she quickly established her self-titled label. In 2016, Goddard was awarded British Emerging Talent at the British Fashion Awards. This year, she was a Finalist for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.
"I keep using the drug analogy, which is probably a bit inappropriate - but I wanted this collection to feel less Nineties coke-y fashion, more giggly, stoner-y fashion," Goddard laughed after a successful Spring show where Mayor of London Sadiq Khan sat front row. Although Goddard still incorporated her statement tulle into many of the looks, she is evidently moving towards a slinkier, more conventionally sexy silhouette with sequins, blazers and smocked dresses in pearly white, grey and black. Goddard added, "Ultimately, I wanted it to feel cheerful. The woman was a confident, funny woman."
Pyo is a Central Saint Martins graduate whom worked as assistant designer at Roksandra before launching her own label in 2014. Having just given birth six months prior, the Korean-born designer wanted to celebrate all kinds of women, their different shapes and roles in her first full runway show. Loose fitted pantsuits in offbeat pastels, easy to wear, yet tailored cotton dresses and controlled frills at the hem and neckline was Pyo’s ode to the modern woman.
Polish born, German raised and British educated at the Royal College of Art in 2014, Jakubowski launched her own label, establishing it into an effortlessly sexy line. This new generation feminist designer is bringing back the sexy of the early noughties. Jabukowski’s SS18 collection lauds sophisticated tailoring that is deconstructed to the point of wearability.
Parisian born Central Saint Martins graduate, Steinmetz worked for Jeremy Scott before launching her own line. This season is her debut show for London Fashion Week with a fascination more akin with street style than couture. Quickly becoming known for her handcrafted denim, Steinmetz expanded her repertoire with logo heavy track pants, deconstruction, white cotton and threaded pieces that looking like they were spun from a spider’s web.
by Kara Kia