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#LFW: Modern British at Burberry, Versace's Tribute to Gianni

text by Kara Kia

In the historic Old Sessions house in East London, Burberry continues its transition into modernity with a fresh twist on its classic 19th century raincoat. The new Burberry is edgier and experimental with semi-sheer rubber coats in pastels, strategic lace and colourful Scottish-inspired knits. The rubber said fetish, the lace was sexy, eastern inspired and the prints were positively heritage against a backdrop of images by 20th century British photographers. Despite an anti-fur demonstration, where the house does not use fur, the story of a 21st century Burberry was well articulated. 

The collection was best described by Creative Director Christopher Bailey “I wanted it to be a bit more honest, less polished with a bit more rawness, with working class gritty, generally Northern urban images,” said Bailey. “I had been looking at all these images and started to build a picture of what I wanted the collection to be. And I liked the grandeur of this building. It is a lot of what we’re trying to say in the collection – a bit of grandeur, but also it’s broken down with age.”

Versace invented the famed model squad that defined a 90’s fashion aesthetic, models walking down the runway in pairs of three and four. It was sweet nostalgia to see Gianni’s iconic vision revisited by sister Donatella on the 20th anniversary of his death. Binx Walton, Rianne Van Rompaey, Lexi Boling and Vittoria Ceretti opened the show as the Versace girl gang of the early naughties. A blank set emphasized the retrospect and a front row filled with the crème of Italian designers, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele and Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello.

Donatella paid homage to her brother by pulling out the medusa heads, studded leather and archival prints, seashells, Warholian Vogue and Monroe. There wasn’t a dry eye in the house by the time the original supermodels Carla, Claudia, Naomi, Cindy and Helena closed the show in Versace chainmail while Donatella took a bow to the 90’s song Freedom by George Michael.  

 

by Kara Kia 

Published: Fri, Sep 29, 2017

Filed in:
  • 90's
  • Binx Walton
  • Burberry
  • Cindy Crawford
  • Claudia Schiffer
  • Lexi Boling
  • LONDON
  • London Fashion Week
  • Naomi Campbell
  • Rianne Van Rompaey
  • Versace
  • Vittoria Ceretti
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1 comment

  • great article so easy to read and educational to the novice

    tony song on October 04, 2017

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  • Blog posts

    Al Tayer Group, Assistant Buyer– Anastasia Gurskaya Joins WE are COCO

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    “Having been able to work both in the UK and Russia, partnering and working a lot with Italians, French and Americans, I am able to compare the cultural differences in terms of work culture, business approach and communications. It is vital to understand those to gain success and I am happy to help people/companies/brands on that journey”

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    Whilst working as a team finding and curating young brands and talent, she worked closely with the international stylist, influencer and ex-creative director of TSUM Moscow - Natasha Goldenberg. Her team were amongst the first worldwide to buy Khaite, starting from their very first season. They were also the first to discover Jacquemus, Cecilie Bahnsen, Peter Do and Casablanca and bought them to Russia.

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    Whitney has extensive relationships in the industry and is known for her long standing connections. Additionally, she has a keen eye for style and trend, knows how to build an attention grabbing assortment while also balancing the financials to run a profitable business. Her experience in the ecommerce and tech space makes her a forward thinker that is constantly innovating. Data is the future of how we buy and collecting that from customers and clients is key in ensuring OTB dollars are spent efficiently and effectively while delivering a client right assortment! Whitney currently lectures for the Retail Studies program at Indiana University as well as mentors a new and upcoming black designer at Stitch Fix who has recently launched her line at Saks and Shopbop (and soon to be Stitch Fix!)

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    Rebecca is super passionate about what she does with a love for streetwear brands, sneakers and sportswear, she has worked with Streetwear brands such as Chinatown market, denim brands; Levi’s and US Heritage brands, Polo Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein and bought head to toe across the Clothing, Accessories and footwear categories.

    "With over 10 years in the industry I want to share my learnings and knowledge to help new and existing brands and retailers. I love the idea of working with the other experienced buyers and the network that We are Coco has built so far and continues to build" Rebecca Thompson, Former Menswear Buyer, ASOS
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WE ARE COCO

WE are COCO is a retail network and brand development agency established under the COCONAUTICAL Ltd. showroom in 2016. WE are COCO, connects brands to the world's leading retailers, through mentorship, collaboration, wholesale & product development.

WE are COCO encompasses Men's Women’s RTW, Accessories and Resort.

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